Southern Africa – Day 18 – Deteema Dam Camp – Hwange NP, Zimbabwe

We were up early- but no lions this morning. Decided to go to Masuma dam again, but no animals there either.

We were just about to leave when the ranger came over and asked if we would take him to the water pump to re fuel as it was empty… they have no vehicles. The water is pumped into the waterholes to maintain enough water for the elephants, which is especially needed at the moment as the rains are late, this year. So, what can you say, we loaded the fuel in and set off thinking it was just on the other side of the dam… no it is way back at Kapula.

We had to take him there wait while he re-started the pump – manually, then take him back, before heading back to Kapula again ourselves. Our good deed was done for the day.

We started on our way to Deteema dam-a little later than expected – where we would camp for the night. Our GPS got us lost a few times (This is a reoccurring problem with “Tracks for Africa” GPS map) & the sign posts are virtually non-existent. We ended up on a few non-marked roads, and 4×4 needed in sections. We have only passed 2 other vehicles the whole trip, which was a bit scary. We eventually made it – didn’t see any animals though.

The site is basic… a stick perimeter – which was falling down, and lots of missing sticks, so it will never keep any animals out! It surrounds a hide, a male & female toilet & a lovely outside tin shower area with a tank raised on top – no power or lights -oh and the water coming out of the tank was green. No shower tonight! This looks over the dam/ waterhole. The rangers came down to book us in, they then went down to the pump & diverted some water from the dam to our tank so we could flush the toilets etc. then spent a good ½ hour getting us some firewood in their wheelbarrow – they do not have vehicles.

It was at least 38 degC, so I didn’t envy them. When they got back we gave them some cool water and asked if we could go out onto the wall of the dam – we could, but only as far a certain tree….they then proceeded to walk David and I around the whole perimeter, way past the tree, and gave a commentary of what animals we could expect. We were about half way around when a herd of elephants walked past our campsite & down to the water – this was a good start. Brendan who was sitting at the car – didn’t even notice them, they can be so quiet!

It was extremely hot, so we decided to go into the hide as it was a lot cooler – Brendan even slept on the concrete bench seats. As it started to cool down the dam was visited by more elephants, black back jackals, impala, kudu & a, lone, giraffe. We were just about to go back to the car and start tea when we saw the first juvenile lion, then the rest came – 11 juveniles in total – no parents which was a bit worrying, as you never see them without at least one adult lioness. Where is she? They made their way towards the water, some stalking, some playing with each other. Every time I looked through the binoculars, I was sure they were looking directly at me, and there isn’t much standing between us. They stayed around for a good ½ hour – we got some good shots!

More elephants came & the crocodiles started splashing around, but it was now dark.

Cooking in the dark with red lights and bugs flying everywhere- yuck, oh well the things you have to do!

Early night tonight.


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